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Broad Peak is a prominent part of The Gasherbrum Massif which lies in Gilgit-Baltistan on the border of Pakistan and China. The twelfth highest mountain elevated at 8,051 meters is known as “Falchan Kangri” to native Balti people. The English name “Broad Peak” was first presented by the British explorer, Martin Conway in 1892 for its spacious breadth at the top as the peak itself has five summits: Broad Peak (8,051m), Rocky Summit (8,028m), Broad Peak Central (8,028m), Broad Peak North (7,940m) and Kharut Kangri (6,942m).
Dr. Karl Herrligkoffer was the first to attempt Broad Peak who failed due to storms and unbearable coldness in the year 1954. However, an Australian Expedition Team of Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl reached the summit without supplemental oxygen and base camp support in 1957. Furthermore, this gigantic mountain’s one and a half kilometers summit was also conquered in winter by Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski, and Artur Malek on March 5, 2013, but unfortunately, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski did not return while descending back to camp 4 and were announced dead on March 8 of the same year by the expedition captain, Krzysztof Walicki.
The mountain offers some stunning views of The Baltoro Glacier and Mt.K2 which is just a few kilometers away. Broad Peak could be a demanding mountaineering experience for those who desire to know their utmost ability. Despite standing as the twelfth eight-thousander of the world, it is a highly challenging climb; it initiates with hopeless steepness and seems relentless till the end of the expedition. The geographical formation of the summit ridge has startled some of the best climbers of the world as the upper sections of the peak are perilous to ascend. Thus, it is not a convenient climb and requires an excellent level of psychological potency and physicality to stand glorious on its summit.
The most appropriate season to climb is summer. Most of the ascents have been accomplished in July and August as they are the warmest months of the year. The expedition to the summit of Broad Peak is more gratifying in these months than in winter.
Before your arrival at the airport, you must complete all the required procedures for your visa. You will be welcomed by one of our envoys as soon as you arrive at the airport. After a brief meeting, you will be escorted to the hotel booked for your convenience and relaxation. You can also stroll around The Pakistan Monument, Lok Virsa Museum, Faisal Mosque, and many more cultural places in Islamabad.
On the second day, we will carry out our official procedure which includes: travel permit, documentation, necessary formalities, bag pack, shopping and finalize every requirement for our journey. Moreover, every aspect of the trek will be clarified as an important part of the briefing and you will also feel opportune to introduce yourself to your fellow trekkers.
After a palatable breakfast at the earliest hour in the morning, we will fly to Skardu, a magnificent city located in Gilgit-Baltistan which is elevated at 2228 m from sea level. You will be able to freshen up after an hour of a convenient flight and stroll around the city’s exhilarating places. On the next day, our guides will explain the entire expedition and make you prepare for the following days.
After a cozy stay in Skardu, we will drive to Askole on the fifth day. Askole is a small town of Shigar valley which is slightly remote. It is considered as the last station before one invades into the wild regions of the Karakoram. The drive will be thrilling and perhaps a bit bumpy from Skardu to Askole as it usually takes approximately seven hours by jeep covering a total distance of 128 kilometers. As soon as we reach our destination, we will settle in and prepare for our camping.
Following our night in Askole, we will have already started to behold the beauty of the Karakoram region. Next morning after breakfast, we will start our trek from Askole (2800m) to Jhola(3185m) to avoid the heat crossing the Baifo Glacier. You will experience a relaxing hike to JJhola ascending 385m of altitude. As soon as we reach Jhola, we will prepare for our night.
As per our travel schedule, we will be marching on to the pinnacles of Paiyu on the seventh day. We will gain the total altitude of 3383m after reaching Paiyu as it will be our campsite for next two days. Despite various rumors about this incredible place, the region is placid with proper camps.
After a continuous trek for two days, we will halt in Paiyu as a one-day break. Paiyu falls in the Karakoram Region where we will be opportune to see a golden sunrise falling in the glorious peak of Paiyu experiencing nature’s generosity. We will relax for the entire day and get ready for Urdukas as our next stop.
After a relaxant break in Paiyu, our journey will start getting tougher as we head to Urdukas (4130m). It will be a challenging day undertaking the rocky moraines of the Baltoro Glacier. However, the breathtaking sights of Paiyu Peak and Trango will truly astonish you. We will ascend around 750m from Paiyu completing a long walk but the most intense mountain views and Broad Peak will be in our sight wiping the exhaustion. As soon as we reach Urdukas, we will camp and compose for Goro.
Passing an exhausting walk to Urdukas, we will trek to Gora II on the tenth day of our expedition. Somehow, it will be an alleviating day as we will only ascend 120m from Urdukas (4250m to Gora (4250m). You will be mesmerized after reaching the heart of Concordia full of ice smothered by the exotic views of spectacular Masherbrum, Muztagh Tower, and Gasherbrum IV. If we are fortunate enough with a clear evening, we will be bestowed with magnificent dawn and the red hue over Masherbrum.
On the eleventh day, we will trek to Concordia which is known to be the most enchanting campsite in the entire Karakoram region with a 360 panorama sight of some exquisite mountains: Masherbrum, Gasherbrum, K2, Chogolisa, and the Broad Peak itself. After savoring some remarkable sights, we will camp at Concordia for the night.
The twelfth day will mark as a prominent day of our expedition. After a short trek from Concordia (4,550m), we will walk to the base camp (4,850m). We will camp on the Godwin Austen glacier (4900m) and prepare for the journey to the summit.
After our final preparation for our attempt at the summit, we will initiate our steps to Camp 1. Our route will follow high camps 1, 2, and 3 making at least one rotation climb before our attempt to the summit. Our team will speculate the weather for the ascent to the summit. Most probably, we will reach the summit on the speculated day if everything goes as per the schedule.
Camp 1 (5,400m): The route to Camp 1 starts with deep snow and eventually turns to rock and ice. Our mountain guide will pave a fixed-line for a comfortable movement to Camp 1.
Camp 2 (6,250m): The ascent from Camp 1 to Camp to will be one of the toughest climbs of our expedition as the route gets steeper with an impregnable combination of ice, snow, and rocks. However, Camp 2 will bestow some astonishing views of K2 and Baltoro Glacier as soon as we reach there.
Camp 3 (7,200m): The ascent to Camp 3 pursues the crown of the ridge. We will pass through a snowy couloir and reach Camp 3 (7,200m) before experiencing the base of the summit.
The Summit (8,051m): If the weather favors our expedition, it will take 12-15 hours to glorify the summit. Our first aim will be to achieve the col between the central and main summit. After gaining the way out of the summit ridge, we will tackle some small rocky peaks and finally ennoble the magnanimous summit of Broad Peak.
After accomplishing the summit, we will start our preparation for descending back to the high camps and the base camp evaluating the weather. We will rest at the base camp for a day and prepare to trek down to lower elevation.
After resting at the base camp for a night, we will continue to descend from the base camp to Gora on the fortieth day. We will follow our descending route until we return back to Askole, a small town in Shigar valley.
Following our travel schedule, we will drive back to Skardu and rest after a seven-hour drive from Askole. We will freshen up and get ready for the flight to Islamabad.
From Skardu, we will fly back to Islamabad and enjoy the aerial view of the capital city for an hour.
After the completion of a long expedition, you can relax in Islamabad strolling around The Pakistan Monument, Lok Virsa Museum, Faisal Mosque, Mragalla Hills, Daman-e-Koh, and many more cultural places of this great city.
Our expedition to the summit of Broad Peak concludes on this day. We will cordially implore farewell with countless memories. One of our representatives will escort you to Islamabad Airport a few hours earlier to your scheduled flight.
Trekking in the Karakoram Region is always challenging because of its unpredictable weather. We effort our best to schedule our trips in the most appropriate seasons. The above-mentioned itinerary may change as per the trip’s complexities but we guarantee you that the quality of service shall not be compromised at all. In case of delayed or canceled flights, we must inform you that besides the total number of days included in the itinerary, clients shall be obliged to bear the expenses of the extra days themselves. Somehow, 8K Expeditions will undoubtedly facilitate necessary arrangements for your convenience at a reasonable extra charge.
Furthermore, we shall not be responsible for missed International Flights or your luggage before our reception. However, we would be delighted to minimize your loss. We advise scheduling flexible time frames before and after trip departure.
Climbers are suggested not to carry extravagant materials for their own comfort. They are advised to compose their mental and physical health which will be significantly required to resist remoteness, higher altitude, extreme weather, and diversion from their beloved families.
Expedition costs vary depending on factors including: group size, royalty and permit costs in different seasons, category of hotel accommodation, numbers of Sherpa’s allocated and equipment, type of arrangement and package customization. So, we would like to discuss with our client before offering the cost. Please feel free to contact 8K Expedition for any information about in your selected package.
We are wholeheartedly thankful to you for joining us!